Muse Magazine

Saturday, February 09, 2008

WARDROBE: A few things about the big finale: Marc Jacobs

1) The online reviews have all reported conflicting times. By our watches, Marc Jacobs started his show promptly at 7:15pm after spending about ten minutes walking around the stage inside the Armory announcing to everyone that he was ready to start the show. Half of the venue's seats (it was designed to feel like an arena rock concert) were empty. We're still not clear if all of the industry's top editors had made it inside when the first model walked onstage to a live performance by Sonic Youth. So was it a big f-you to the critics who chastised him for being over two hours late last season? Possibly. Many editors were still struggling through traffic from the Sean John show, which happened roughly 20 blocks further uptown at Cipriani and, coincidentally, also started earlier than expected. We got to Puffy's show 25 minutes late only to be told that the show had already started. That turned out to be a good thing, otherwise we would have missed the low-key series of architectural coats and jackets that stood out from his collection. As Kim Gordon sang "Cool Thing," ranting against corporate oppression, Marc showed one cool, recession-proof, Jacobsian take on one sportswear classic after another. The shapes he created were the really cool part of the show and unfortunately those can only be seen by looking at the profile angle, which you can't see by viewing the straight-on pics posted on most Web sites. Bottom line, we'd totally wear it (minus the head ornamentation and a few of the evening looks including the oversized tunic jackets and wide-leg pants). We're guessing it will be about four weeks before we start seeing knockoffs.

2) Marc's collection included leather pants, which haven't really been popular since '98. Could this be the beginning of a comeback?

3) Most of the models wore flat boots and slip-ons, which means fall will most likely be a season of flats knowing the power of Marc (and keep in mind several other designers showed flat boots this week including Phillip Lim and Richard Chai). But we should also remember that the "Sex and the City" movie also hits theaters in all of its Manolo Blahnik/Christian Louboutin stiletto-sporting glory. And remember how many girls started teetering around in heels at the height of that series' popularity? So everybody wins.



































































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